The popular Cheltenham watering hole Yates’s may have maintained its position as a great place to party – and if you are inclined to chug a Jäger train, bar staff are still more than happy to line them up while you knock them down. But a recent refurbishment has served to breathe new life into the bar, seemingly administering a sharp shot of sophistication to proceedings too.

On entering the new-look, open-plan Yates’s, my slightly sceptical companion and I immediately saw the restyle as a wise move in the clear quest to reverse the less than flattering image perhaps associated with the Yates’s chain.

With the makeover has come an intimate candlelit dining area, a warm and elegant decor and contemporary cosmopolitan artwork adorning the walls, suitable for accommodating those looking to luncheon, or kick back after a tough day in the office.

Although in no way exuding a pretentious ambience, there’s no doubt the revamp has provided a much-needed boost for the bar’s self-esteem. Yates’s Cheltenham now firmly posits itself as an establishment worthy of regard – proved throughout the course of our weekday evening visit.

The team were helpful and attentive, and the banter flowed – making for a relaxed atmosphere augmented by cheery background tunes providing a subtle suppertime soundtrack.

Served at the bar by a friendly staff member with a no-trouble-at-all temperament, we found ourselves faced with all the nation’s favourites on tap, offered Tipster’s golden draught ale from Cheltenham’s oldest working Battledown Brewery, and merrily handed the menu.

Let’s be honest, most of us know what to expect from chain pub fare, but to the delight of this duo of discerning diners, there was no hint that a microwave ping had played even the slightest part in the evening’s affairs.

I was pleased to see a good few options for those that choose a life without meat, and as a pesky pescetarian myself (the more pedantic variety of vegetarian) and a sucker for a nice bit of succulent salmon, I gingerly went for Yates’ salmon grill, with chunky chips, peas, grilled tomato and corn on the cob.

With portion-sizes to please even the portliest of punters – no huge plate, tiny morsel rage here – Yates’s Cheltenham had undeniably ticked the value for money box, and a quick perusal of the lunch menu also revealed a similar array of really reasonable prices.

Still, as a fierce critic of second-rate seafood, I reserved judgement until that all-important first sinking of the teeth, but lo and behold, I was surprised to find myself demolishing morsel after morsel of a superb salmon fillet, which was grilled to perfection and fell apart in exactly the way it might in a top restaurant.

My dining partner, known for her voracious appetite, opted for the somewhat ambiguous ‘award-winning fish pie’ – the mystery meal proved both a tasty and wholesome choice and as a consequence my friend struggled to fit in dessert (a first).

Gallantly, I came to her rescue and together we conquered a rich, warm chocolate melt – light sponge on the outside with a gorgeously gooey liquid chocolate centre accompanied by a generous dollop of ice cream.

Thereafter we took the opportunity to lounge languidly on the luxurious crimson sofas and when finally fit to stand, both parties departed sporting the warm glow of gluttony… having undergone a mental one-eighty, courtesy of a radically reincarnated Yates’s Cheltenham.

Amanda Nicholls
14 June 2010