Gloucestershire food with Rob Rees October 2009

From crunchy apples to dining on quince, tucking into squash or sampling a glorious Sunday lunch – embrace change in October, says The Cotswold Chef Rob Rees.

October is a time of change in our landscape and in our larder – a time to be excited and invigorated, as autumn appetites starts to crave winter warmers.

The cooler weather of October brings its advantages for foodies in the form of enriching the flavours of root vegetables, brassicas and indeed fruits – slowly but surely the starches are turning to sugars, with delectable results.

This month, Age Concern and Help the Aged’s The Great Sunday Lunch on Sunday 18 October 2009 is a perfect excuse to get together with family‚ friends‚ neighbours and colleagues to enjoy a tasty lunch‚ and raise platefuls of money for a worthwhile cause – whether you’re cooking up a storm yourself or going out in Gloucestershire.

Look out for early pheasants, pigeon and loads of wild mushrooms on a myriad of menus, with bread sauce, game chips and celeriac puree, as well as sauté chards, roasted parsnips and glazed onions all exceptionally seasonal accompaniment to a slap-up lunch on a Sunday.

Partridge, available from Woodland Game at Cirencester Farmers Market, will still be young and tender during October, resulting in a more delicate taste which is perfect for those not too keen on strong gamey flavours. With one bird per person, coat with a few rashers of bacon, a twist of pepper and a squeeze of limejuice and bake for about 30 minutes in a medium heated oven.

Also, look out for the weird and whacky varieties of squash that start to appear in October. Butternut squash is delightful roasted and then puree for a ravioli filling or just to serve warm with grated nutmeg, Single Gloucester Cheese and a juicy slither of roasted Old Spot pork. While gem squash is delicious served tapas-style, quartered and grilled with butter, paprika, chorizo sausage and a touch of red wine.

Quince is a fruit that only the brave dare taste before it reaches full maturity reaches perfection this month. The best way is to cook it like apples or pears – in fact they are perfect when mixed together with spices and apples in a steamed suet pudding. Quince jelly remains a traditional accompaniment to goats cheese – such as Windrush or Cerney, although I confess I prefer a pint of Cotswold larger with my toasted goats cheese and pine nut crostini.

What about October’s wild harvest? Look under bushes and hedgerows for giant puffball mushrooms. These majestic fungi are delicious fried up with some butter, bacon bits and served as a late Sunday morning snack on toast with a big steaming mug of hot tea. Best advice if you’re not certain what the puffball looks like is to take a guidebook with you, so that you don’t pick any of the dangerous varieties.

And finally, this month who can forget the annual celebration of crunchy apples of all varieties and colours on Wednesday 21 October 2009? While delightful left as nature intended, for a warming twist try baked apples in jackets – a melting moment of apple cooked till golden with the texture of caramelised honey flavored fluff, which is perfect for a chilly autumn evening.

Have an outrageously good October and see you again in November for more glorious Gloucestershire food highlights.

Rob Rees
1 October 2009