Gloucestershire food with Rob Rees November 2009

The warm kitchen provides a cosy retreat from the drizzle of November, says The Cotswold Chef Rob Rees, with game, hearty autumn vegetables and ripe pears providing the comfort food before the Christmas preparations begin.

The leaves are nearly fully fallen from the trees, the nights are drawing in early and foggy damp mornings are becoming common as November progresses. It’s a time for comfort food and mugs of hot chocolate sat by the fire. This dramatic change in the season is mirrored by the food on our doorstep – with autumn’s late harvest, rich in flavour and diversity, tempting our palates to experiment in the kitchen.

As we batten down the hatches, who can forget that November is a time to start to focusing on the Christmas preparations – getting the mince pies in the freezer, marzipanning the cake, and getting the Christmas pudding half baked and soaking up rum. Don’t forget ‘stir-up Sunday’, the Sunday before advent, is on Sunday 29 November 2009, when families traditionally start their puddings.

For many November is also a chance to explore game dishes. This month wild ducks are lean and tasty, offering a natural fat that when basted over the meat envelopes it in a coating of delicate moisture. Cook the duck to your preferred temperature, allow it to relax for five minutes then slice thinly and serve with a puree of smooth celeriac, thyme and a drizzle of hazelnut oil.

Pheasant also begins to enter its prime this month. The season may run from October to February, but early and late birds are often either tough or poor value in terms of money, appearance and taste. In November the breasts and the whole birds can cope with quick methods of cookery. For the traditionalists, pheasant is delicious braised with stock, aromats, a few peeled shallots, some pearl barley and red wine. Serve with clear rich gravy, bread sauce, game chips and a touch of crab apple jelly for a delicious dinner.

In the wild, wood blewit mushrooms can be found in Gloucestershire’s fields – adding heart to game stews or braised meat dishes such as some shoulder of lamb from Adeys Farm braised with orange juice, red onions, red wine, rosemary and a touch of stock.

Don’t forget salsify, one of the ugliest and underrated vegetables we have. Its dirty dark long roots can be washed, peeled and lightly poached, before allowing it to cool in the liquid and serving diced and fried in butter, garlic, chopped parsley and a twist of nutmeg. Salsify is particularly tasty when served with a good old-fashioned lamb or pork chop.

Finish a hearty November meal with some creamed leeks, when the veg is at its prime. Trim the top and bottom and wash well, dice the white bits before simmered with Noilly Prat vermouth, cream, seasoning and a touch of Birdwood Blue Heaven cheese to create a great dish, or simply blanch and toss with chilli oil, lime zest and dill to accompany salmon, scallops or other fish.

Pears are at a perfect point of ripeness in November. Handle with care as they bruise easily, and lightly poach in sugar syrup with cardamom pods, or puree and fold with pastry cream and egg whites for soufflé for fantastic results. The classic pear and frangipan tart is a stunning combination of the great English pear and almonds.

Walnuts, pomegranates, broccoli and oysters can also be great value in November – a time of year to dust of your grandma’s traditional cookery books and indulge in some English classic cuisine. The ingredients certainly aren’t in short supply and the warm kitchen is a far more inviting place to be that outside in the damp and drizzle.

Enjoy November and see you again in December for a festive look at Gloucestershire’s food highlights for Christmas and beyond.

Rob Rees
13 November 2009