Gloucestershire food with Rob Rees February 2010

February is fast becoming a whole month dedicated to romance, with the food being a firm favourite to win the hearts, says The Cotswold Chef Rob Rees.

So Valentines month is in full swing, and it’s no longer just one day but something that seems to stretch out further and further each year. Whilst I know many of the county’s cracking restaurants will be serving up fantastic cuisine for couples across Gloucestershire, I also know that commercially Valentine’s Day is a real relief for the restaurant cash flow!

Call me grumpy, but I prefer the joy of visiting a Gloucestershire farmers market or farm shop to discover brilliant local products for my very own romantic Ready, Steady, Cook. Good food isn’t just the way to a man’s heart, you know.

At this time of year go for some salmon, as the season is really beginning to grow. Cooks around the world know that the taste of wild salmon is far superior to the farmed fish, but for the majority of people the choice comes down to affordability. When buying salmon look for bright eyes, brilliant red gills and a natural shiny slime and if you do buy wild, it’s always best to cook it whole to keep in the moisture and flavour. I love salmon simply baked and served with a caper and lemon beurre noisette drizzled over the top.

In February venison is also now at its prime. Rich, dark and succulent, keep in mind that the wild venison is going to be tougher and almost certainly requires some kind of marinating and slower method of cooking. Venison casserole with hazelnut and lemon dumplings, sauté garlic chard and buttered carrots is a delicious dish, and while marinades can vary think mulled wine flavours and aromats and you can’t go too far astray. Juniper is another great combination, as are apples or a very peppery brussels sprout puree.

This month there is also an abundance of spring greens. Yes I know, they are loose-leaf cabbages and for some reason people tend not to indulge in them – but you should. They are great value for money and stunning chucked into soup at the last moment to lift its flavour or tucked inside vegetable lasagna as a healthy bulk. Spice them up in a stir-fry style with some delicate trout or go for garlic croutons and crispy bacon as a salad.

Suckling pig is another firm favourite this month, as well as vegetables such as spinach and celeriac. These winter vegetables are so flavoursome and offer fantastic nutritional benefits, and please don’t neglect the humble swede, turnip and parsnip.

And if you’re hoping Cupid will bend his bow this February, Valentine’s food to plump for will be a simple supper on Sunday. For me a good hearty pea and ham soup or perhaps a smoked salmon salad with toasted bagel, poached egg and a hollandaise sauce, followed by a naughty but nice hot chocolate fondant will hopefully hit the spot. And try using the aptly-named passion fruit, rich in Vitamin A and Vitamin C, for a healthy hit of nutrients on the big day.

Have a love struck February and see you again in March for more sensational spring food highlights from across Gloucestershire.

Rob Rees
11 February 2010