With no less than £2 million having been invested into extensive refurbishments, Cheltenham Regency Hotel – home to The Regency Restaurant – has ambitious plans to become a destination venue for local residents and Gloucestershire visitors alike. And now, having recently scooped three AA stars for its accommodation and an AA rosette for the restaurant, it seems the dream is a step closer to becoming a reality.

It was a shame, then, that our Friday evening visit saw the restaurant more than a little quiet – with only a smattering of hotel guests sipping Guinness solo in the neighbouring hotel bar – although being seated at an intimate table for two and presented with unexpectedly elaborate menus, our attention was soon focused elsewhere.

Quail stuffed with foie gras and Jerusalem artichoke soup with truffles; New Forest lamb with cumin-scented jus and wild sea bass with bouillabaisse sauce; and not stopping there with iced leatherwood honey parfait and chilled cherry soup with white chocolate ice cream on the dessert list – this was a menu which set out to grab attention, impress and excite.

My beautifully presented house-cured duck bresola, fig and almond compote with melon jelly was short of getting the seasoning just right – overpowering the deep earthy flavours of the meat and the subtle accompaniments somewhat. The pan fried scallops, which was equally delightful to look at on the other hand, melted in the mouth and worked well with the extremely generous serving of bacon and chive risotto cake.

An elaborately-composed dish, the main course of apricot stuffed saddle of English rabbit didn’t quite pack the flavour punch I was hoping for, in despite of the parmentier potato, baby aubergine and café au lait sauce which came with it. Equally elaborate, but this time delivering overflowing flavour in abundance, the herb coated brill was the star of a seafood dish featuring an adventurous combination of Cornish crab, fennel, roasted parsnip and champagne foam – providing wonderful combinations of texture and taste.

Convinced by the boisterously rave reviews of our attentive waiter, we weren’t disappointed to be digging into a fantastic rhubarb cheesecake with poached rhubarb – sweet, sour and nothing short of spectacular down to the crisped strands of yet more rhubarb used to finish the dish. The warm chocolate fondant meanwhile, was packed with fine cocoa and broke open to reveal a lip-smacking oozing centre – set off by a scoop of delicate marmalade ice cream. A selection of homemade petit fours tied the evening together with aplomb.

With head chef Robin Dudley, formerly of the Queen’s Hotel in Cheltenham, at its helm – coupled with the aforementioned investment and recent awards – The Regency Restaurant’s fine dining ambitions should be applauded. Our evening showed plenty of promise – there was hints of excellence in the food, the tasteful décor lived up to the restaurant’s name, and the location is well within reach of Cheltenham and Gloucester. While some refinement is required before the evening’s experience is worthy of the price tag, I for one hope to see this restaurant continue on its path to success.

The average price of a three-course meal for two at The Regency Restaurant, excluding drinks, is around £60.

James Fryer
10 May 2009