The newly opened Montpellier Chapter caused somewhat of a stir in Gloucestershire’s social circles – providing a hip new haunt to fill the gap its former guise The Kandinsky left gaping when it closed three years ago. But, on a Tuesday evening visit the SoGlos.com team was keen to see if the cooking could match up to the restaurant’s growing reputation as the new place to be seen sipping cocktails.

Sprinting up the hotel’s steps from the small car park to avoid a soaking, the evening started with a slick production line from the doorway – complete with polite hellos, coats taken, seats in the lounge shown to, drinks menus distributed and cocktails ordered by a dizzying array of smartly dressed staff in matching trousers and shirt combos and Converse-style daps.

We slouched back on the huge sofas, flicking through hip design hardbacks and admiring the refurbished decor – with floor to ceiling bookshelves, a cacophony of coffee tables, kooky art and candles. Sofa-space at a premium, more than a few polished guests passed us to scout out the almost pitch dark conservatory, before making swift U-turns back into the lounge to find a better-lit seat.

Our drinks, most notably a refreshing and potent cider mojito, were served swiftly as restaurant menus were perused – until unceremoniously shoved aside the second we were given the chance to play with the iPad wine list, a novelty clearly not lost on the other guests either, particularly the males seen poking the Apple device with smiling enthusiasm.

Shown to the restaurant, it too was full with a buzzing atmosphere to lift the Tuesday spirits. Rather than a romantic place to whisper sweet nothings, glamorous groups of middle aged woman, silver haired CEO-types, jeans-wearing twenty-somethings and a table of designer-clad students all rubbed shoulders with relaxed comfort – chatting, laughing and gazing around at fellow diners.

Meanwhile the open theatre kitchen took centre stage – with busy chefs chopping, sautéing and clattering pans purposefully, while adding a dynamic sense of entertainment to the evening. We weren’t too sure about the ‘England’ emblazoned artwork, but the well-priced house white and red made sure we soon took our eyes off the walls.

For starters my partner tucked into a trio of perfectly cooked scallops cooked in a classic garlic and herb butter, elegantly served in half shells for a touch which was visually pleasing on the eye, but not necessarily on the fork. While I tackled a tasty Asian-inspired crispy duck and watercress salad, served with refreshing orange segments and lashings of punchy grain mustard dressing.

For the main course I opted for the succulent pork fillet wrapped in smoky Trealy farm ham, which was accompanied by meltingly tender honey glazed pork belly and square of salty crackling, along with smooth mash and a dollop of tangy apple sauce. We were told it was a firm favourite with regulars, and I wouldn’t hesitate to order the dish again… and again.

Opposite me, not just any great quality cutlet of venison, but ‘the best venison ever tasted’ was devoured. As was the red cabbage and sweet creamed parsnips, with a rich port and raisin sauce complimenting the succulent and perfectly prepared game sublimely. A side dish of French beans was also well cooked and well seasoned, served in a miniature Le Creuset dish for a stylish touch.

The dessert menu overflowing with British classics was too tempting to miss out on – with apple crumble my first choice. Served steaming hot, the buttery crumble was excellent and the plump fruit filling both warm and comforting with runny custard to drizzle on top. The sticky toffee pudding was disappointing, however, as the caramel sauce had a bitter and slightly burnt edge. Oddly enough (and this has to be the first time we have ever nit-picked about cutlery) the dessert spoons were so deep they were actually a bit difficult to eat with.

The sprightly, endlessly smiling restaurant manager Karen, who took our orders and looked after us splendidly, could not have be more attentive or professional throughout the evening. Although some of the youngest staff could perhaps do with some more pointers – awkwardly plonking down plates, and even snapping at some (albeit rather obnoxious) customers next to us.

But, while there are still some minor improvements to be made, for a newly opened establishment the early signals of success are remarkably impressive. With a satisfying menu of well-executed favourites, stylish surroundings and electric atmosphere, The Montpellier Chapter Restaurant will no doubt become one of the Gloucestershire jet set’s favourite places to not just to be seen at, but eat at too.

Michelle Byrne
31 January 2011