Contrary to the backdrop of quaint cobbled Tudor streets with tourists bustling into a service at the nearby Norman Abbey, we hoped Tewkesbury’s modern restaurant Aubergine would provide the contemporary culinary offering we were looking for.

As we stooped in through the door of the 15th century building, however, we were taken aback as nostalgic memories of visits to the grandparents’ house were aroused. It wasn’t the décor – crisp white linen-clad tables with walls to match and the occasional print boasting the pictures of the restaurant’s eponymous fruit – but the older diners packing out the modest number of tables.

But, in despite of feeling as though we had gate-crashed a weekly village hall coffee meeting, a hostess with a beaming smile soon had us seated at a table for two, accommodating for our having forgotten to book on this busy Saturday evening. Attention soon turned away from the rest of the diners in attendance – who it turned out were also heading to the aforementioned abbey service – and to the menu of mouth-watering dishes and a blackboard packed with specials to match.

No sooner had orders been placed than our efficient young waiter arrived with the starters. My dining companion’s sweet red pepper and butternut squash soup was a vibrant bowl of bright orange, with a fresh homemade flavour that proved surprisingly subtle. My modest portion of smoked trout on a bed of simple crisp salad packed more of a flavoursome punch, with the ramekin of fresh horseradish sauce supplying the taste bud-tingling bite I was hoping for.

As classical music softly piped out into the relaxed restaurant run by three generations of the same family, the front door occasionally creaked open, only to be closed again as potential diners were apologetically informed there weren’t any tables available. Ever-thankful of our last-minute seating we would have been happy to sit and chat for a while longer – enjoying a glass of crisp chardonnay and Herefordshire mineral water for the driver – but main courses were soon hovering overhead.

The homemade salmon quiche was again fantastically fresh with a light and crumbly crust and meaty hunks of salmon. With the addition of a generous mixed salad and new potatoes it proved the perfect summer dish. My heartier chicken and gammon pie with local cider wasn’t quite as seasonally successful – with the plentiful pieces of tender meat overpowering the delicate sauce. The accompanying vegetables were steaming-hot and well-cooked, while the dauphinoise potatoes provided a garlicky punch but could have benefitted from more seasoning.

By now Aubergine’s tables were filling-up with groups of, this time, diners in their 30s and 40s, as well as more than a few picture-perfect family groups. With stomachs surprisingly more stuffed than expected, we passed on the afters – which included summer specials, as well as luxurious ice-cream and a selection of cheese and biscuits. But, Aubergine’s home-away-from-home atmosphere is sure to tempt us once again – next time we’ll be sure to book, save room for desserts and bring fussy family members who won’t be able to resist the decent, honest British food.

The average price for a three-course meal for two at Aubergine, excluding drinks, is around £40.

James Fryer
May 22 2007