On our Sunday evening visit, as we sat peering out towards Pittville Park, rays of sunshine broke through the tall regency windows to reveal highlights of the restaurant – from the splendid centrepiece of fresh white lilies and grand polished mirror adding depth to the intimate room, to the gleaming glassware, surpassed only by the giant champagne flutes playfully perched near rows of tables.

Reflecting its brasserie-roots, the cheeky illustrations of moustachioed waiters dressed in tuxedos and white aprons lining the walls was another stylish touch – while our waiter for the evening, Thomas, came equally immaculately attired in suit and tie. You would expect, then, that service live up to expectations and, we’re happy to report, it far surpassed them.

From selecting a smashing bottle of red – which I guiltily have to admit I have now forgotten the name of, it was that good – to filling glasses at just the right time, subtlety returning to the kitchen when one of chef’s towering creations must have toppled over en route, never running risk of hovering around and anticipating our every need throughout the evening, Parkers’ – and indeed Thomas’s – service should be the benchmark for many a restaurant about town.

It seemed that no compromise had been made in the kitchen either, as the restaurant’s head chef Wayne Sullivan – in attendance on our visit – revealed. Perfectly presented, along with all the dishes which followed it, the generous portion of natural smoked haddock risotto was outstanding; the al dente rice held together by a creamy sauce contained meaty chunks of deeply flavoured fish, with the cherry on top being a soft poached egg broken open to spill out its vibrant orange yoke joining speckles of superior oscietra caviar. My spears of delightfully fresh asparagus were cooked just enough, drizzled with a finger-licking-good homemade hollandaise sauce and, to my dining partner’s relief, my very own soft poached egg.

The main course of Gloucester Old Spot belly of pork boasted a thick, crunchy layer of salty crackling, making way for a juicy hunk of tender meat which fell apart easily – all sat upon a layer of moist spinach and accompanied by suitably subtle little balls of garlic confit potatoes. The more unusual addition of a lightly seared scallop, however, is still being debated – delicious on its own but somewhat unusual in the texture department when combined with its counterparts.

While without any unconventionality, my rare fillet of locally reared beef was a superb cut of meat, arriving with fondant potato, black trompette mushrooms and a smattering of baby beetroot before leaving as a near-white plate. Excellent ingredients married with flair and without pretension.

Reviewing the restaurant, rather than our bellies, dictated that we order dessert – and thank heavens too. The raspberry brûlée had a satisfying crunch of bitter, burnt sugar topping, encasing a thick yoghurty fruit filling crying out to be scooped up with the light vanilla shortcake. The coconut ice cream lollipops, on the other hand, were an altogether more youthful choice, dipped in a warm, sweet caramel sauce to create wondrous combinations of hot and cold in the mouth.

The only criticism we could make upon finishing three fine courses was that the restaurant was a little quiet for comfort, although in comparison a previous Sunday lunchtime visit had seen us almost snuggle up to adjoining diners with tables being nestled fairly close together.

Benefiting from being part of the independent Hotel on the Park, we took advantage of the opportunity to retire to the bar cum lounge for coffee. And, while already taken aback by the evening’s success, we enjoyed a piping hot cafetier of a Cheltenham blend while a spectacularly tall sweet stand layered with carefully handcrafted chocolate and jelly petits fours took pride of place on the table.

With locally-sourced, seasonal and fine quality ingredients employed with skill to create excellent dishes, a level of service which is all too rare and a talking-point setting, Parkers the Brasserie proved nothing short of remarkable, and a visit comes highly recommended.

The average price of a three-course meal for two at Parkers the Brasserie, excluding drinks, is around £65.

James Fryer
30 June 2008