As the sun set over the lake at a beautiful springtime Pittville Park, we tossed the last of our bread to the greedily quacking ducks and enjoyed the gentle stroll to The Hotel – home of Parkers Restaurant – with high expectations and appetites to match.

SoGlos.com’s last trip (to Parkers the Brasserie as it was named at the time) back in the summer of 2008 was a great success, and this return visit left an instant impression courtesy of hot pink chairs, dramatically-lit artwork of abstract flowers against high-gloss black backgrounds, and fine tableware throughout the intimate dining room.

While the décor may have taken a theatrical break with tradition, the service was exactly the same as we remembered. Our dapper waiter was well versed in his trade, and Fred Sirieix from Michel Roux Junior’s Service would have been proud, making us feel like valued guests from the offset.

We had enjoyed delicious homemade crisps, delicate melt-in-the-mouth pastry straws and glistening plump olives – plus a G&T or two – in the bar before being escorted to our table. And despite being the only diners eating out at Parkers Restaurant on our midweek visit, we soon relaxed to a disco-tinged soundtrack.

The high standard of presentation carried through to our starters, veritable works of art on the table straight from a Michelin star cookbook. My slow cooked Loch Duart salmon was a texture sensation, melting in the mouth and complemented perfectly by the pickled beetroot and subtle wasabi yoghurt.

The artichoke veloute also tasted as good as it looked. A smooth and velvety sauce boasting complex savoury flavours, topped with a single herb tortellini and generous shavings of black truffle which dissolved into a luxurious treat on the tongue.

For main course my pan-fried wing of skate was moist and delicious, forked up with subtle River Fowey mussels, rosemary gnocchi and a caper-rich lemon beurre noisette sauce to create perfectly rounded mouthfuls. While adding a colourful touch to the plate, I wasn’t sure the juicy, acidic confit cherry tomatoes helped with flavour.

Despite her first mouthful including cartilage which should have been trimmed off, my dining companion’s crisp belly of Gloucester Old Spot pork was rich and flavoursome – just holding up to the strong parsnip gratin and accompanied by black pudding and a subtle onion and garlic puree.

The pièce de résistance of the evening, however, was the playful toasted marshmallow dessert, presented like a fairytale mushroom with individual blackberries and crab apples, an iced vanilla parfait and chestnut puree. Delightful. My mulled wine poached pear, walnut frangipane and lemon thyme sorbet was also a triumph – the chef having combined flavours with aplomb.

From the striking decor of the dining room to the carefully presented dishes each matched to individual styles of plate, the use of premium ingredients and a chef more than confident in the kitchen, Parkers Restaurant has embarked on an ambitious journey to deliver fine dining at its best in Cheltenham. While the dishes could be refined ever so slightly, and the atmosphere improved with more diners in attendance, for a special treat foodies from across the county should enjoy a real occasion at this independent restaurant.

The average price for a three-course meal for two at Parkers Restaurant, excluding drinks, is around £80.

James Fryer
11 April 2011