Two and a bit years since SoGlos.com last reviewed The Wharf House restaurant in Gloucester, we thought it was high time we put the waterside eatery’s well-earned reputation to the test once again.

From gaining a new Prime Minister to the coining of the ‘credit crunch’, not forgetting Susan Boyle becoming an unlikely household name – a lot can happen in such a time, after all.

Arriving early on a Friday evening, the atmosphere was instantly relaxed as we were seated in the warm, honey-toned restaurant. Two busy young waitresses made final preparations for the evening’s service, before patiently waiting as we deliberated much longer than is civilised over which of the mouth-watering classic-British-with-a-twist choices on the menu we should opt for.

With deliberations dilly-dallied over long enough, we kicked-off with some delicious hors d’oeuvres – with warm homemade bread used to greedily soak up the last drops of tangy oil from the plump olives – the very best of intentions not to spoil our appetites being quickly forgotten.

The red onion and chilli soup was a sublimely seasonal start to the evening for my dining companion – with natural sweetness in abundance making it a moreish, if unusual, course. The incorporation of chilli gave the flavoursome soup a fiery undertone, and while we did wonder whether the addition of croutons might have elevated the dish further still, it was nonetheless excellent.

My rustic carpaccio of beef featured generous slices of meltingly tender beef, combined with punchy rocket and flavoursome parmesan for a fantastic take on the classic starter, but it was the hot homemade horseradish that showed unique flair and brought the simple dish together with aplomb.

With appetites now truly whetted – and the dining room filling with chatter and laughter as a table for 12 and a couple of parties of four arrived, almost simultaneously – the main courses maintained the high standard which had been set.

The pan fried duck breast on a bed of orange and ginger couscous was certainly one of the more attention-grabbing choices on the menu, but one which combined bold flavours with confidence. The tender bird – served perfectly pink, as ordered – delivered a delicious depth of flavour, with the light cous cous giving the dish a refreshingly zesty and modern twist.

The Herefordshire rack of lamb, a popular choice with other diners too judging by the smiles, starred plenty of moist, beautifully-earthy and delicate meat on the trio of ribs – combined with creamy apple mashed potato to create forkfuls of deliciousness. The rich honey and rosemary sauce could have packed in a little more flavour, but worked beautifully to hold everything together.

It was fantastic to see the use of local ingredients extend beyond the food, as the last drops of a delicious ripe and rounded rosé – from the Strawberry Hill Vineyard just down the road in Newent – were savoured.

Onto desserts and my apple and blackberry crumble was a homely delight, piping hot out of the oven with a crunchy top layer making way for generous helpings of soft, sweet and bang-in-season fruits. While the duo of dark and white chocolate cups – respectively infused with orange and then lime – was an ambitious, exciting and tantalising dessert that we vividly recalled from our previous visit, and weren’t at all surprised to see it last the test of time.

With a genuine commitment to local, seasonal and good quality ingredients, attentive service and a relaxing waterside setting, it’s not difficult to see why this restaurant has not only survived – but thrived – in recent years.

While The Wharf House certainly impressed the SoGlos.com team on its first visit in 2007, despite the doom and gloom that pervades many a newspaper headline, this is an independent local business that has gone from strength to strength, with diners driving from across Gloucestershire to visit the county institution – and for very good reason.

The average price for a three-course meal for two at The Wharf House, excluding drinks, is around £60.

James Fryer
18 October 2009