While Verderer’s Court’s 332-year designation as a meeting point for the Verderers – the administers of Forest Law responsible for protecting local deer and their habitat – may sound like nothing more than a dry history lesson, the room’s past and present purpose is all part of the experience when dining out at The Speech House Hotel’s restaurant.

The stag-gering, ahem, 19 pairs of antlers lining the grand dining room’s walls are perhaps the most obvious reference, while three huge oak beams supporting the entire length of the ceiling, wrought-iron chandeliers hanging overhead and a glorious oak raised gallery all add to the setting. And that’s not forgetting the rich, velvety drapes hanging by the windows, imposing regal paintings and Charles II’s coat of arms taking pride of place above the door, of course.

Despite its traditional décor, however, the restaurant’s menu has thankfully moved with the times – with no coxcombs and small beer a la The Supersizers Go... in sight, you’ll be pleased to hear. Instead we took our place at one of the dozen tables, which quickly filled with couples and families on our Saturday evening visit, to explore a modest menu of largely British, with a twist, well-priced cuisine.

Teeth chattered on sampling our starters – suspected to have come from a somewhat arctic refrigerator – which both nonetheless boasted fine quality ingredients; mine a generous portion of ham hock terrine speckled with the more unusual, and welcome, addition of white beans; and my partner’s a simple chicken liver paté alongside a smattering of deliciously punchy red onion marmalade. A touch more seasoning wouldn’t have gone a miss, if only being picky.

The house white, a Pierre Henri Sauvingnon Blanc, wasn’t really anything to shout about – and opting for something further down the wine list is recommended – but the chance to soak-up the lively atmosphere of the by now capacity-full restaurant was a pleasure.

For anyone wondering, like I did, venison was not on the menu, and so we instead opted for alternative carnivorous choices which were to prove the highlight of the evening. My roast rack of lamb was a feast of flavoursome, moist, pink meat, accompanied by a subtle red wine and rosemary sauce which only added to the main attraction. Across the table the slow roast belly pork boasted thick crackling, meat which fell apart at the slightest touch and an addition of apple and sage jus – resulting in a hearty and accomplished dish.

The generous portions didn’t stop there, as we struggled to finish our sticky toffee pudding and Bakewell tart with clotted cream – decent enough puds in despite of being, upon enquiry, sadly not homemade.

With an evening of good food, and very warm service from the two waitresses flitting across the restaurant throughout, behind us, our night came to an apt end as we headed out on the dark forest road from the Speech House Hotel. For not one but two magnificent deer were illuminated in the car’s headlights, casually grazing alongside the road and only stopping for a moment to raise their heads to greet the open-mouthed onlookers as we crawled past. A beautiful reminder of the awe-inspiring Forest of Dean.

While The Speech House Hotel has long been an institution of the local area, a visit to the Verderer’s Court restaurant is a must for visitors to the area. If you’re lucky, it might even make for an evening for the history books.

The average price of a three-course meal for two at Verderer's Court, excluding drinks, is around £50.

James Fryer
1 December 2008