Driving along a pitch black country road in the pouring rain with a thick fog descending, we missed the sharp turning to Cowley Manor not once, but twice. But, with the window wipers on overdrive and our 8pm reservation looking less and less likely, third time lucky, we found ourselves snaking along a narrow village road with the imposing Cowley Manor illuminated before us like a beacon of hope.

Arriving, what we hoped was fashionably rather than downright rudely late, we handed our damp coats apologetically to a receptionist as warm as the cosily inviting entrance, before being shown into the bar for some stylishly presented pre-dinner cocktails. Lounging on leather sofas waiting for our mojitos to arrive we, like the other suitably amused guests, couldn’t help but notice the bar’s papier-mâché ‘hunting trophy’ masks of baboons and wart hogs lining the walls – making for a cheeky conversation starter and a clear indication that the rambling English manor was anything but traditional.

While the intimate dining room next door was equally as relaxed, bathed in a golden glow from modern lamps hanging in perfect linear symmetry from the lofty 1850s ceilings and twinkling tea lights reflecting off the grand mirrors, there wasn’t an animal head to be seen on the decadently carved oak panels as we sashayed across the polished parquet floor to our awaiting table.

Despite being a mid-week visit, The Restaurant at Cowley Manor was buzzing with a casually stylish crowd occupying the majority of the white linen-covered tables. And while romantic couples gazed forlornly into one another’s eyes, we sipped glasses of chilled Chilean Sauvignon Blanc and gazed forlornly at the menu of seasonal choices vying for our appetites.

While the daily changing menu was concise, reflecting a quality rather than quantity of dishes, there was still more than enough temptations to deliberate over. Eventually, much to the waiting staff’s relief no doubt, we chose starters of seared, plump Scottish scallops cooked adeptly, served with pleasingly crisp and crumbly pancetta, and a vibrant pesto. My dining companion opted for pink and flavoursome slices of Cotswold pigeon breast, served with a sweet fig and apple jam, alongside crunchy celeriac – with the textures marrying well, for an accomplished dish.

For the main course more of Scotland’s marine life was ordered, this time in the form of a well-cooked, juicy salmon steak complete with satisfyingly sizzled skin, served atop a creamy and aromatic saffron risotto. While the resident carnivore opposite devoured his prime selection of a roast saddle of Stowell Park venison, served with celeriac gratin, braised red cabbage and a smattering of rich game sauce. A side order of fresh market vegetables were also brought to the table, consisting of vibrant, al dente sugar snaps, green beans and broccoli florets – a gratifying addition to the already generous portions of sophisticated comfort food The Restaurant at Cowley Manor has become known for.

With the attentive, if not slightly shy, staff on hand at a moment’s notice we relaxed in the sanctuary of The Restaurant, not rushing to face the elements outside, which left a convenient excuse to see the dessert menu. The soft scoops of blackcurrant sorbet were a refreshingly light and fruity treat, although the wheat biscuits served alongside seemed an odd combination and were left mostly untouched. While my companion claimed he needed to build himself up for the winter weather outside by having the sticky toffee pudding, which was the best he’d had in his life apparently, thanks to its fluffy texture, decadently sweet sauce drizzled generously, and rich farmhouse-style fudge ice cream served alongside it – not a bad way to finish the evening.

Reminding us of the sort of place that Blur would have sang about in their heyday, this very big house in the country’s contemporary restaurant is set apart from the more stiff upper lip brand of manor littering the Cotswolds. Thanks to its relaxed environment and honest food prepared with style, The Restaurant at Cowley Manor is certainly one we will make a return journey for, whatever the weather.

Michelle Byrne
30 November 2007