The British love affair with Italian cuisine is hardly a national secret – with more than 3,000 Italian restaurants in the UK, and at least 30 within the Gloucestershire borders alone, all satisfying the nation’s voracious appetite for all things Italiano. But while there is certainly stiff competition for the county’s favourite Italian eatery, Pino’s Ristorante in Lechlade is a strong contender for the crown.

There wasn’t a tricolore flag, singing waiter or Tower of Pisa statue in sight when we entered Pino’s on a bustling Thursday evening – instead exposed wooden beams hinted at the restaurant’s pub past, while white washed walls and wrought iron chandeliers added a rustic charm to the recently renovated interior.

An early evening booking meant we were slightly surprised to find many of the tables already filled with a young family, a couple of couples and a group of work colleagues, who were all relaxing in the laid back dining room. And, as a soundtrack of Il Divo and pop opera resonated in the background, it wasn’t long before smartly-dressed waiters and waitresses in black and white were taking our orders, littering the conversation with just enough well-placed grazies to add a genuine touch.

The courgette and scallop soup caught our eye from the starter selection – sounding both an unusual and seasonal combination. The piping hot bowl that arrived didn’t disappoint. Thick and moorish, excellently seasoned, with two plump scallops swimming in the centre adding fishy depth to each tasty spoonful.

This warming start to the evening was upped by the superb slivers of pink beef carpaccio, generous handfuls of peppery rocket and crumbly parmesan shavings served with a drizzle of truffle oil opposite. The classic dish, seen on a plethora of menus the world over, proved all the more pleasantly surprising because it was so spot on.

Whilst the wafting smell of warm pizza was tantalising tempting, and despite both toying with ordering the fresh tagliatelle with sambuca from sheer curiosity, my partner plumped for almost as daring-sounding risotto with scallops, green apple and champagne. With cider undertones, the unusual dish packed a zingy punch that proved a true testament to the chef’s skill to combine unusual flavours without overpowering the subtle scallops.

At the recommendation of the chef, no less, I opted for sea bass served with round disks of crisp and calorific roast potato and a side order of spinach packed with iron. Again, with no need to reach for the salt and pepper, the four moist and flavoursome fillets stacked in a delightful tower were fresh and meaty morsels of more than generous proportions that I wouldn’t hesitate to order again.

Straying off-menu for the after dinner selection, we opted for the day’s special – white chocolate mousse with caramelised pine nuts. Having seen a myriad of mouthwatering martini glasses filled with tiramisu, we were slightly disillusioned with the presentation of our shared dessert in a humble white bowl more fitting for cereal, but one spoonful of the fluffy, whipped treat was enough to quash the jealous looks we were giving the next table.

With more chilled glasses of pinot grigio than we cared to count sipped at leisure, the fancy bottles tempting us to sample one of the extensive selections of flavoured grappas was sadly skipped. But despite no nightcap, and a slightly longer wait than many because we opted for risotto, thanks to remarkably efficient service we were nonetheless shocked to see that we were ready to leave the tip by 9.30pm – almost afternoon by continental standards!

Leaving plenty of time for the 45-minute drive home to Cheltenham, it didn’t require much deliberation to decide that Pino’s Ristorante had risen to the challenge of becoming our newest choice destination for Italian cuisine in the county. Offering an unassuming slice of Italy, while it may look like a typical British pub from the outside, Pino’s can safely rely on its authentic cuisine, laid back atmosphere and friendly service to create customer loyalty – without resorting to the caricatured clichés that can pervade less confident Italian eateries.

The average price of a three-course meal for two at Pino's Ristorante, excluding drinks, is around £38.

Michelle Byrne
7 September 2009